Solar, sea, seafood … and few Covid instances: summer season in southern Puglia | Journey


Gilda Siena likes to speak – a lot so she is thought amongst her visitors as “the chatty lady”.

Within the decade since she purchased a 19th-century constructing as soon as inhabited by Venetian the Aristocracy within the Salento space – on the southern tip (the heel) of Italy’s Puglia area – and made it into boutique lodge Palazzo Siena-House & Extra, this facet of her character has led to many friendships.

Proof of the love felt in direction of her could be gleaned from the message e-book and thanks letters and playing cards obtained from world wide. Amongst her favorite visitors are the Swiss man who she nicknamed “James Bond” for his flash white sports activities automotive (which seemed a tad misplaced within the hamlet of Specchia Gallone, particularly alongside her Mini Metro); the inside designer from London; the couple who requested her to witness their marriage ceremony; and the six lesbians from Canada who she frolicked with by the pool, chatting and laughing.

“These girls have been such nice enjoyable,” mentioned the 61-year-old. “Essentially the most lovely factor about this job is attending to know folks.”

However this 12 months, owing to the coronavirus pandemic, there are few folks to talk to.

“It’s a unusual 12 months, and unhappy to see one thing that was so energetic now so quiet. We have been like one huge household,” mentioned Gilda, whose two daughters assist her handle the enterprise once they can.

Gilda in the palazzo kitchen

Gilda within the palazzo kitchen

Though tourism has been returning to Italy for the reason that nation reopened its borders in early June, and the coronavirus state of affairs is comparatively below management, bookings are drastically down. The rise within the variety of Italians holidaying at dwelling has finished little to decrease the influence of the lack of earnings from international guests. Italy is the fifth most-visited nation on the planet, and tourism normally accounts for 13% of GDP, or about €230bn a 12 months.

“We have been totally booked for the season by January: many individuals have been returning visitors, however then they cancelled their bookings due to the pandemic,” mentioned Gilda.

For Palazzo Siena, as with different resorts which have reopened, attempting to remain afloat has meant decreasing costs. The season started late due to the nationwide lockdown. The pricing technique prompted a trickle of bookings in June and July; August is trying extra promising. One other promoting level is that Salento and the broader Puglia area have been pretty unscathed by Covid-19, with fewer than 5,000 confirmed instances for the reason that onset of the pandemic in February.

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The vast majority of Palazzo Siena’s visitors normally come from the UK, the US and Canada. This 12 months, the international guests who’ve made the journey up to now are from neighbouring international locations.

Austrian Sylvia Fragapane, her Italian husband Fabio, and their daughter drove 14 hours from their dwelling in Switzerland and booked a three-night keep at Palazzo Siena. It was the household’s first go to to Puglia.

“We selected Puglia as a result of there are few Covid instances,” Sylvia mentioned. “And we have been cautious when choosing a spot to remain – we might inform Palazzo Siena was a lovely dwelling to remain in, good and spacious and in contrast to regular resorts.”

The interior of Palazzo Siena

The inside of Palazzo Siena

Palazzo Siena is considerably of an oasis amid a pandemic. The constructing, as soon as owned by a household of wealthy retailers, had lain deserted for the reason that 1960s earlier than Gilda caught wind that it was on the market throughout a dialog with a fellow diner at a pizzeria in close by Otranto, whereas on vacation there in 2010.

“It was destroyed, however as quickly because the door opened it hit me how lovely it was,” mentioned Gilda, who had by no means undertaken a venture of its sort earlier than. After a quick tussle with one other eager purchaser, the property was hers.

It took a 12 months to revive. Clients quickly began to reach, largely by phrase of mouth. The 9 ethereal rooms are impeccably furnished, retaining the constructing’s authentic options. Visitors go to sleep to nothing however the sound of chirping crickets and get up to the sound of church bells. Centuries-old vines cowl the traditional colonnade within the huge backyard, which is dwelling to fig, walnut and almond timber. The vegetable patch offers elements Gilda makes use of in native dishes, together with pumpkin flower risotto with burrata, the mozzarella-like cheese from Puglia, and courgette tart. Whereas there’s no restaurant as such, meals could be ordered upfront and served both on the terrace or within the eating room.

The pool – which is cleaned by the identical one that cleans the pool on the vacation dwelling of actress Helen Mirren in Miggiano, a few half hour’s drive away – provides respite from the afternoon warmth.

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“It is a vacation for individuals who need peace and to calm down,” mentioned Gilda. “Many get up early, to swim and do some train. There are many quiet spots to learn. There are strolling and bike trails close by. Individuals don’t have to consider dressing up or placing on make-up. For me, that is the actual Salento – simplicity.”

Specchia Gallone is a neat hamlet of fewer than 500 folks, with little leisure past a bar and restaurant. It may be reached by automotive from Brindisi airport, or by once-daily bus from the baroque metropolis of Lecce, from the place you possibly can catch a prepare to the close by city of Poggiardo. Nonetheless, a automotive is important for exploring the pristine seashores and distant villages of the Salento.

Porto Badisco inlet with boats

Porto Badisco is 20-minutes away by automotive, although its seashore is small. Photograph: Angela Giuffrida

The closest seashore to Specchia Gallone, a 20-minute drive away, is Porto Badisco, an inlet with a small sandy seashore and rocks from which native youth plunge into the clear water. As legend would have it, the Trojan hero Aeneas made a stopover in Porto Badisco after his escape from Troy.

On a current Thursday morning, the seashore was packed, with little social distancing in proof.

“Fewer persons are coming but it surely’s nonetheless inconceivable to discover a parking area,” mentioned resident Gino Castaldi.

The beachgoers are largely locals and different Italians on vacation.

“I normally prefer to journey overseas, however this 12 months I’m discovering Italy extra,” mentioned Claudio Ressa, an IT specialist from Milan, in Lombardy, the area worst-affected by coronavirus. “The state of affairs in Milan was so heavy. However right here I really feel relaxed, as there aren’t so many instances. The persons are additionally welcoming.”

Extra respiratory area could be present in Alimini, north of Otranto, the place an extended stretch of seashore is backed by sand dunes and pinewoods. A lot of the seashore is taken up by personal institutions, with lounger and umbrella rental for about €eight a day. The seashore companies should comply with strict coronavirus guidelines, together with sustaining enough area between loungers and disinfecting the beds between clients.

Alimini beach is sandy and spacious.

Alimini seashore is sandy and spacious. Photograph: Angela Giuffrida

“The season is slowly getting began, however with a discount of 30% or 40% in contrast with earlier summers,” mentioned Enrico Castellano, who manages the Due Laghi seashore membership. “We’ve had a whole lot of British folks visiting over the previous 10 years, however not so many now. I hope they return. It’s a lovely area, stuffed with nature and well-serviced tourism.”

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Salento’s financial system was as soon as fuelled by the tobacco business, however all that continues to be in the present day of that period are deserted factories. Olive oil is a serious product, however growers have been badly affected by one other infectious illness – Xylella fastidiosa – a plant pathogen that has killed tens of 1000’s of olive timber in recent times. That leaves the area closely depending on tourism. Villages would normally draw guests via cultural occasions and sagre, meals festivals showcasing native specialities. However these have largely been cancelledthis 12 months.

“All of it went up in smoke,” mentioned Remo De Pascalis, a bakery proprietor in Giuggianello, near Specchia Gallone. “All the ladies normally collaborate to make conventional dishes. Sagre deliver small communities collectively but in addition entice loads of vacationers – they’re the occasion of the 12 months.”

Eating places, particularly these with ample outside area, are managing to carry up.

“We misplaced April and Might within the lockdown however since we reopened in early June, there was a gradual circulate of individuals,” mentioned Barbara Vincenti, co-owner of Matisse, a restaurant in Uggiano la Chiesa, close to Specchia Gallone and really useful for its seafood. “We have now a backyard so we handle to distance the tables properly. For the second, we aren’t doing too badly. However I fear concerning the winter, as folks may not wish to eat inside. Plus, we don’t know what awaits us with the virus.”

The season at Palazzo Siena wraps up in October, when Gilda returns to her dwelling in Bari. She’s not anticipating a lot from the following few months, however hopes to see her mates return in 2021.

“This 12 months has been totally different,” she mentioned. “I simply hope that nothing else occurs and that we are able to quickly get again to regular.”

Palazzo Siena has a particular charge of €190 an evening for its consolation rooms in August and September (regular charges in August from €223-€366). In October, consolation rooms price €139 and suites €179,


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